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    麗江市:漫話麗江文化
      時間:2010-6-3      來源:發現麗江    編輯:haozhihui【字體: 】【收藏】【關閉

            導讀:東巴文化是納西族自創的一種文化,其核心內容是以納西東巴象形文字書寫的大量東巴經書,以及東巴繪畫、東巴舞蹈、東巴音樂、還有就是為東巴專用的各種服飾、器皿、紙、墨等實物,……

    漫話麗江文化

      麗江能同時戴上“國家級歷史文化名城”和“世界文化遺產”這兩頂耀眼的桂冠,足見其文化底蘊的深厚。要全面準確地認識和了解麗江,就不能不對麗江的文化作一番認真的審視,看看好到底有哪些特點,在麗江的社會歷史進程中到底有著什么樣的地位和作用?

      首先,應該說一下最能體現麗江文化獨特性的納西東巴文化。東巴文化是納西族自創的一種文化,其核心內容是以納西東巴象形文字書寫的大量東巴經書,以及東巴繪畫、東巴舞蹈、東巴音樂、還有就是為東巴專用的各種服飾、器皿、紙、墨等實物,換言之,就是以東巴教為核心的圖、文、舞、樂和其他物品共同承載的具有納西族民族特征的物質文明和精神文明的統稱。顯然,它是由納西族獨創、也是為納西族獨享的,只不過從上個世紀開始越來越受到外界的關注。出于學術和商業的雙重目的,研究和應用它的人日益增多,可以說遍布全中國和全世界。東巴文化的主體是東巴教,東巴教的得名在于它的祭司被稱為“東巴”。東巴并不以專職從事宗教活動為生,仍然要與普通人一樣從事正常的生產勞動,僅僅在業余時間根據需要使用東巴的紙張、筆墨和東巴象形文字書寫東巴經卷,研讀東巴經書,主持東巴教中祭天、祭“署”、祭祖、祭神、除穢禳災祛病等各種祭祀活動。東巴教沒有自己的教堂寺廟,活動場所均在自然界及民間,與百姓生活聯系極為緊密,具有很強的世俗性。東巴經書的內容可以說包羅萬象,堪稱納西族的大百科全書。從本民族創世紀的神話傳說,到遷徙、征戰的歷史;從對原始狩獵、游牧活動的描述,到農耕文明的產生;從群婚制的狀態,到對偶婚再到一夫一妻的家庭生活;從私有制的出現到階級分化的形成;文學藝術中有神話、故事、詩歌、諺語、音樂、繪畫,甚至還有世界上所發現的最古老也是最獨特的圖畫象形文字舞譜;生產生活知識中有理、工、農、醫、商貿、軍事、天文、歷法、交通、建筑等等,涉及歷史學、考古學、人類學、民族學、社會學、倫理學、宗教學、哲學、語言文字學、文學、美學等自然我社會科學的數十個學科,加上數以千種的東巴祭祀儀式的程序描述,可以說東巴經書的浩繁程度已經大大超出了我們的想像。放眼整個世界,我們也很難再找到一個小小的民族能夠像納西族這樣用自己特有的民族文字(而且還是象形文字)將本民族從古到今社會生活的方方面面全都加以整理記載,由此而形成多達2萬余部的古章典籍。僅從這一點來說就能看出納西族超凡的民族凝聚力和創造力。其實,要說起來僅僅東巴象形文字本身就已經是一項了不起的創造,這種圖畫象形文字納西語稱為“斯究魯究”,意思是“留在石片木片上的記號”,簡單說就是“木石之痕”。其主要用途在于書寫東巴經書,所以又常被稱作“東巴字”。東巴字的基本字數不多,只有2000多個,跟漢字之間并不能形成一一對應關系,因而在記錄表述事物時只能以一種:“跳躍式”的組合方式來表達。打個比方說,可以把東巴圖畫象形文字中的3個基本字——一個流淚的人,一條狗,一段路——組合起來,要表達的意思用漢字書寫出來就是“一個人走在路上碰到了一條狗,嚇得哭了起來”,3個東巴字就對應了19個漢字(還不算標點符號)。由此我們不難看出,東巴文字的表達方式留給讀者的想像和發揮的空間是很大的。這就是為什么同樣一部東巴經書,一個功底較淺的小東巴可能花半個小時就誦讀完了,而一個功底深厚的老東巴則可能會誦讀上幾個小時甚至一天半天。水平越高的東巴誦讀一部東巴經書的時間越長,這種現象不但很有趣,也給東巴之間相互比試功夫“評定等級”提供了可資操作的依據,比其他民族靠“專家”評定別人的水平高低要可靠可信得多——至少在主觀上不給“專家”以有意抬高或貶低別人的機會。

      麗江文化還有一個極為突出的特點就是它的開放性或者說兼容性。它對一切外來的文化都持一種寬容的態度,只要是先進的、有用的,客觀存在都會接收過來,保持和發揚下去,最多按自己習慣的方式略加改造而已。多元文化并存,是很多地方都有的現象,但在麗江則表現得最為突出、最為典型。據《麗江府志略》記載,明代文人薊羽士、周月泉、擔當和尚,畫家馬肖仙等先后來到麗江傳播漢文化,在麗江產生了很大的影響。木氏土司非常開明,不僅在詩詞文章上與這些人有交往,而且還從中原請來大量的各類人才,包括教師、醫生、裁縫、廚師、泥瓦木鐵等各類能工巧匠,甚至還有負責開礦、冶煉、房屋建造等各類工程技術人員,使麗江的各項事業呈現出一個蓬勃發展的良好態勢,也為各種文化在麗江交流融會創造了一個極為寬松有利的條件。在麗江你會發現,無論是有形文化還是無形文化,都是各門各派和平共處,相互兼容,外來文化和本土文化也能和諧相處,共存共榮。比如近代納西族居住的房屋,基本式樣與中原特別是江淮一帶的造型并沒有太大的區別,而典型的院落布局“三坊一照壁、四合五天井”完全是照搬白族的規矩,“走馬轉角樓”則帶有藏族的風格。把不同地方、不同民族在同一事物當中的不同優點全部集中起來為我所用,這正是納西人的聰明過人之處。也許是受了麗江寬松和諧的社會環境的影響,就連在別的地方經常鬧對立的佛道兩教在麗江也能相安無事,一處寺廟可以兼作道觀,和尚道士“合署辦公”的現象在麗江屢見不鮮。豈止兩教之間相安無事,還有儒教、伊斯蘭教、基督教、天主教、白教等全都可以在麗江“安家落戶”。著名的白沙壁畫就是麗江多教融合的寫照,儒、釋、道三教人物出現在同一幅畫面上,說明現實中三教在一起活動的情景是很普通的,否則畫師不會這樣畫,或者即便畫出來各教如不認可也會將其毀棄而不會流傳至今。更值得提及的是,佛教之中教派繁多,影響較大的兩支為“藏教”和“漢傳”,而麗江竟然成了他們之間的一個南北交匯地,同時也是分界地。也就是說,從麗江開始再往南已沒有藏傳佛教,再往北也沒有漢傳佛教,可見在其他地方“誓不兩立”的兩種教派,到了麗江卻有了“共處”的機緣,麗江堪稱是一個和諧的典范。

      “和諧”二字可以算得上是麗江文化的精髓。在麗江,不僅人的自身--身與心、心與靈--是和諧的,人與人是和諧的,各種文化現象和流派之間是和諧的,而且人與自然也是和諧的。納西族崇尚自然,相信萬物有神,這與很多民族沒有太大的區別。最關鍵的在于,他們不但創造了一個自然神--“署”,而且還把“署”說成是人類的同父異母兄弟,這樣就把自然與人類的關系更拉近了一步。據東巴經書記載,遠古時期的納西族在經歷了一場可怕的洪水之后,只剩下了一個名叫崇忍利恩的優秀青年男子。無法忍受孤獨的崇忍利恩先后娶了兩位天女為妻,第一位妻子婚后生下的全部是飛禽走獸、花鳥魚蟲等自然界中的生物,第二位妻子生下的才是健康正常的人類。開初,人類與自然也能和諧相處,但到后來,貪得無厭的人類對自然的掠奪越來越厲害,已經到了使“署”無法容忍的地步,雙方就鬧到了天神丁巴什羅的面前。人類搶先開口說:“天地、山谷、樹木、河流等全部被‘署’霸占,人類難以維持自己的生活,請天神讓‘署’把這些東西都交給人類來主宰。”“署”答辯道:“人類污染了潔凈的山泉,亂挖亂采土地和石頭,亂砍亂燒成片的樹林,還天天上山大肆捕殺陰坡的野豬、陽坡的老虎、雪山的黑熊、巖上的黃蜂、天上的飛鳥、林中的花蛇、篝邊的青蛙、河里的魚蝦,真正活不下去的還是我們自然界的生物啊!”聽了雙方的陳述,丁巴什羅說:“再這樣鬧下去,河水會斷流,樹木會枯死,江河會干涸,石頭也會爛掉,萬物生靈都會渴死餓死,人類和‘署’都難以存活。”為此,丁巴什羅讓雙方經過調解達成協議:一、“署”要給人類提供清泉水、普降及時雨、允許人類在適當的地方適度開荒并在糧食不夠吃的情況下進山適度捕獵,以維持人類的生活需要;二、人類要自覺愛護環境,不得任意砍伐森林,不得大肆毀林開荒,不得隨意捕殺野生動物,也不得隨便污染水源空氣。為了提醒世世代代的納西人能夠自覺遵守協議,納西人在每年開春時都要舉行隆重的祭“署”儀式,在儀式上表示對“署”的親近和感謝,反思自己有無傷害自然的行為,其實質就是在年復一年地對人類進行愛護環境、崇尚自然的“傳統教育”。正是由于納西族具有這樣的優良傳統,所以才能始終保持人與自然的和諧,納西族所在的地方也才總是那樣的山清水秀。特別值得一提的是,納西族的“署”文化并不是要人類對自然一無所求、一無所取,人類有生活資料來源是離不開自然的,只是在與自然交往和向自然索取的時候要有節制,要適度,而適度的標志就是人與自然的關系平衡協調、對人類有利的同時自然也可以承受。這樣的主張與20世紀后期在全人類范圍內形成的“可持續發展”的思想就基本精神來說是完全一致的。換句話說,在納西族頭腦中形成“可持續發展”思想的火花,領先于全人類的時間竟在千年以上,納西族確確實實是很了不起的。

      更了不起的,或者說麗江文化的又一個閃光點就是他們自古以來對文化學習的高度重視。如今在麗江木府大門外不遠處街道上還立著一道不知建于何時的大大的牌樓,牌樓上方是非常漂亮的四個描金大字“天雨流芳”。這四個漢字描述了一種十分美妙,非常有動感、有音響和色彩的效果,既能帶給人愉悅,又能引發人思緒的深遠意境。但如果沒有人跟你介紹的話,你無論如何也不會想到,這四個字其實是一句納西話的音譯,而這句納西話的本意是在勸人特別是勸青年人“讀書去吧!”把這樣一句話重彩描金大寫出來豎立于大街之上以時時刻刻世世代代地勸人去讀書學習,這又是納西人在全世界范圍內的一個偉大創舉。這座牌樓其實已經成為納西族優秀民族精神的重要標志。每一個從牌樓下走過的人都應該受到鼓舞和教育,都應該從中看到一個民族未來的希望!這座牌樓的出現絕不是偶然的現象,而是一種歷史延續的必然結果。《明史·土司傳》中就有這樣的評述:“云南諸土官知詩書,好禮守義,以麗江木氏為首。”如果說木氏土司愛學習還只是少數人的作為不足奇的話,那么,清朝雍正年間麗江實行改土歸流時朝廷派來的兩任流官楊馝到任之后“……乃首查民病,免除每年苛派萬余金;次出良民之在莊院為奴者五百余戶,均平賦役、招徠勸墾……授以種稻之方,鼓其向學之志。”而鼓“向學之志”的最重要舉措就是創立興辦“雪山書院”,讓平民百姓子弟也能進“學宮”學習漢文化。這在麗江文化教育的發展史上是一個嶄新的里程碑,為中原主流文化在地處偏僻的納西族中間得以推廣奠定了堅實的基礎。另一位流官管學宣則為麗江重視和熱愛學習的良好社會風氣的形成起到了決定性的推動作用。據史書記載,管學宣上任后采取了一系列的措施興教督學,除了“多籌資金、重整書院、廣設義學”之外,還明確規定有子弟不讀書的就嚴懲父母,有百姓不赴學的就追究鄉保長的責任。除了為辦好學校“購書籍、聘名師”之外,他還經常帶著隨從在夜深人靜時走街串巷,發現窗下有燈光映照的人家就敲門進去探查,如果有書生在秉燭夜讀的,當即記下該生的姓名及所居住的房門位置,次日便派人送來錢糧資助,如此一傳十、十傳百,自然使麗江“士風日上”。他還經常到學館書院親自給學生授課、閱卷,對麗江學子寄予很高的期望。他在《下東課士說》一文中寫道:“麗山水清淑,人士英敏,將必有握珠抱玉,崛起于雪山玉水之間者。”麗江人民深感其教化之功,在他離任之時,“郡人老幼攀轅注送,數十里絡繹不絕,士子有送至二三日路程者”。正是有如此開明的流官引導,形成了人人潛心向學的優良傳統,所以總人口一直沒有超過30萬的納西族才會在清朝一百多年時間里出了2位翰林、7位進士、60多位舉人,在當今則有5位大學校長、30名博士、300名副高以上的專家學者,具有中級職稱的專業技術人才更達3000多人。按人口比例計算,在全中國都可稱得上數一數二。

      概而言之,把麗江的綺麗風光與絢爛文化相對照,更顯輝煌耀眼的應該是后者。

     


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